Faces of South India

Having flown from the rather gritty Kolkatta to our first south Indian destination, Chennai, we were unsure what to expect when disembarking…would the south continue to be an assault of noise, pollution, people, cows, rickshaws and intense smells?  Would we, at any stage, get a glimpse of what could be a deemed a ‘relaxing holiday’ rather than a ‘hardcore adventure’?

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Having been stalked paparazzi styles around practically each and every monument of the north, bamboozled out of more rupees that we can anticipate at every turn and having grown increasingly more wary of people’s intentions with every interaction, we were (as ungrateful as it might seem) ready for a change of pace.  Strolling along the beach in Chennai our first night, we braced ourselves as a large group of young men came running up to us to chat and take photos.  IMG_5093

Feeling the relaxation that a change of scene can sometimes bring about we obliged and were rewarded with…huge smiles, sweet intentions, grateful handshakes and hearty goodbyes.  The end.  No ulterior motives, nothing.  It was a wonderful introduction to the relaxed and generous nature of the southern people and was to be the pattern for the entirety of our stay at this end of the sub-continent.  We spent entire afternoons sitting on beaches, outside temples and cruising around the markets having people approach us to talk and always wanting their photos taken, providing us with the best ingredients for fabulous portraiture.  There’s no anecdotes or narrative here, other than the generosity of our models.  Enjoy!

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Before you think AGAIN that we’ve gone all soft and fluffy, check out this awesome video  we took on the beach the first night in Chennai.  It has been duly added to the file of “Things to Do to Naughty Kids in the ESL Classroom”…hehehe.

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Street Art in KL – A Short Interlude

Art on walls has been around literally since they first invented the wheel.  Nope, scrap that, since probably well before that!  This type of art tells stories, represents cultures, expresses emotions that can be out of place in other forums and, often, well, just plain old brighten up a boring space.

In the course of our being uploaded to our workplace’s website, we were asked about our hobbies and interests.  Among the many excellent activities that Dan enjoys, he happened to mention that he really loves discovering, appreciating and photographing street art and graffiti and added that finding walls is a great way to explore a place and its culture.  The look he received from others in the room provided a reminder that not everyone appreciates this medium and, further, perhaps misses the point that street art can be much more than grubby tags on your garage door. Sometimes people just don’t get it.

Kuala Lumpur is a place that has really given us some wicked example of street art to check out.  The diverse and incredible art that lines the Sungai Klang riverbanks can prove a concrete wall, (or a garage door!) can become something beautiful when art is encouraged.

So while we construct the fabulousness of South India into some semi-coherent babble, here is some of the wonderful art from KL to keep you occupied in the meantime – enjoy!IMG_1918 IMG_1916 IMG_1960 IMG_1965 IMG_1966 IMG_1967 IMG_1970

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Short interlude before we are back on the shores of the sub-continent! See you soon.

The North Must Come to an End…

After three weeks in the north of India it was time to experience our final destination before winging our way down to see what the south of the country had to offer.  It had been a whirlwind of sights, sounds, smells and experiences with each and every place we visited offering diversity far beyond our wildest dreams.

Kolkata was the last place on the northern itinerary and we had mixed feelings about saying goodbye to the north but were excited to see what the last hoorah would have to offer.

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An innocent mid-afternoon walk to explore surroundings nearby to our hotel turned into one of those scenes from a movie where tourists walk into an area they probably shouldn’t be and get harassed, surrounded, followed and physically bombarded by people who don’t necessarily have their best intentions at heart.  

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Luckily, the beating we were privy to was from a gang of sub-10 year olds, so we deflected the kidney shots, jumped in a taxi and high tailed it over to a far more zen environment…IMG_5048 On the must do list for Kolkata was Mother Teresa’s house.  For even the most cynical and jaded of travellers, for those who have seen both the best and the absolute worst of humanity and for everyone in between its a place where you can’t help but be moved.  Part museum, part missionary centre (and wholly both at the same time!) it provides a fascinating glimpse into the psyche of Mother Teresa and other such people who choose to give their lives to helping others.  Whether you agree with her religious views or not, throwing yourself into the very depths of poverty and despair in a foreign country is a pretty full on effort, don’t you think?IMG_5047 Nuns pray around Mother Teresa’s marble tomb regularly and must be pretty pap-savvy as they didn’t even flinch at the flashbulbs going off all around them.  Man, we sound tacky, but we swear, we respected every minute and every centimetre of their space.  IMG_5042 H-J even got an invite to sit down and chill with them.  She tried to blend in as inconspicuously as possible and, amazingly, didn’t even burst into flames!IMG_5046 IMG_5045In terms of places to see in Kolkata, we can’t recommend it highly enough if you have even a minute piece of something resembling a soul.  It would take a pretty cavernous, black nothingness to not be at least a little intrigued/interesting/moved by the centre and the smiling, welcoming nuns within.

The only other sight we managed to squeeze into our tight Kolkata itinerary was the Victoria Memorial Hall, a stunning building dedicated to the Empress of India.

IMG_4985Set in 64 acres of lush gardens, it seemed like a lovely, relaxing place to end our time in the North.

IMG_5034 However, not being as paparazzi-cool as the lovely nuns (or as peaceful, or forgiving) it was about this moment that H-J’s attitude toward being following around the tourist sites of North, jumped out at from behind trees and stalked with video cameras took a turn for the worse.  Yes, its a very selfish problem to whine about but even dreadlocked, tattooed, privileged tourists need a break sometimes.  Britney, we feel ya…

IMG_5010IMG_5008All in all, Kolkata truly came through for us as it summed up the North in one convenient nut shell.  Or perhaps betel leaf would be more appropriate.  There were the highs, the lows; the stunning, the depressing; the smiling faces, the hidden glances; gleaming marble alongside cows eating rubbish…so thank you Kolkata for giving us our last look at the breathtaking and eye-opening north of India.

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Sunrise to Sunset in Varanasi

While we’ve joked about ‘sunrises’ in India and how they aren’t really worth trekking to the top of mountains for, in Varanasi we threw all our baggage aside and joined the throngs to partake in watching the day break from the waters of the Ganges.
IMG_4081 Gliding along on a little boat, its a pretty amazing way to not only start your own day but to view Varanasi as it wakes up too.IMG_4073 IMG_4770 IMG_4773 IMG_4069 IMG_4788 IMG_4059 Sun firmly in place in the sky, hidden behind layers of who knows what, it was off to the stuff that religious studies dreams are made of – Sarnath, the legendary deer park where Buddha gave his first teachings on Dharma.  Pretty epic stuff, really!  IMG_4807 The parks is a veritable playground of stupas, ruins and even a bodhi tree or two and has been developed as a place of pilgrimage for Buddhists from everywhere and other nosey/interested parties.  Many predominantly Buddhist countries have established temples and monasteries in Sarnath and it was a particularly cool thing to be able to see the differently clad groups of monks all hanging at the park, doing their respective monk-y stuff. The different countries have established temples and monasteries in Sarnath in the style that is typical for their respective region which means visitors to the park also have the opportunity to experience an overview of Buddhist architecture from various cultures.  Its an amazing and spectacularly interesting place, so if you’re in the area, break away from the Ganges, get thee to a tuk-tuk and explore!IMG_4792 IMG_4796 IMG_4793 IMG_4094 IMG_4797IMG_4812 What better thing to do when you’re feeling all serene and Buddha-ised, than to throw yourself back in to the teeming streets of India?!  The day was still a babe thanks to the early morning boat ride jackknifing us out of our slumber.IMG_4960 IMG_4959 Blue Lassi is one of those places on the well beaten track in Varanasi that is worth a visit.  The due who runs it has has been making the sweetened yoghurt drinks since he was a child in this third generation business near Manikarnika burning ghat.  IMG_4947 IMG_4950 Seasonal fruit is added, and the whole shebang is served in the traditional clay pot – which you smash when you’re finished!  IMG_4954 With the day drawing in quickly, it was time to have a final stroll along the ghats back towards a sunset boat ride.  It seemed like the perfect way to finish up the day and also our time in Varanasi.IMG_4821 This time round, we launched our thoughts/prayers into the water with beautiful candles, which floated serenely down the Ganges.IMG_4832 IMG_4834IMG_4838 IMG_4840 The serenity was, however, fairly short lived as we our boat jostled for position with hundreds of others to witness the nightly puja rituals on the ghats.  Vendors stepped from boat to boat plying their wares.  It was crazy, awesome and the perfect ending for our time in this city that is unlike any other on Earth!IMG_4864 IMG_4878 IMG_4118

Street Art in India

Graffiti isn’t the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of art forms in India, and true to that assumption what we had been seeing so far in our travels came in more traditional forms and content – lots of sculptures and pictures depicting gods, history and legends.

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It was pretty awesome when we also started to stumble upon less traditional subject matter and techniques as well as re-interpretations of key icons.

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IMG_4881In Agra, Dan decided to be lazy and while the other guys walked back to the hotel he decided he would catch a lift on an auto rickshaw.  An striking piece caught his eye so Dan asked the driver to stop so he could take a picture.IMG_4613Impressed with Dan’s enthusiasm, the driver then mentioned that he knew where more walls were and would be happy to take Dan there.  Rupees were handed over and off they went! IMG_4614 The driver said that a man from Europe came one day and started randomly spraypainting the walls. The local people didn’t know what to think…but now there are some pieces scattered around the Taj Mahal area of Agra which actually seem to blend in with the rather scruffy looking town surroundings. IMG_4617 Pretty cool really. Another great bonus for Dan on his birthday!IMG_4611

A couple of days later we were in Varanasi. Low and behold the banks of The Ganges were covered with graffiti.IMG_4674IMG_4787 IMG_4889 IMG_4779 IMG_4032 IMG_4709 IMG_4029 IMG_4663 IMG_4708 IMG_4710 OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA IMG_4692 OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIMG_4695IMG_4665Street art really is an international language!

The Ghats of Varanasi

Varanasi was top of our must-do list in India.  With H-J’s background in religious studies geekery and Dan’s lust for, well, everything, it was one of the most highly anticipated aspects of our time in India.  Everyone seems to have different feelings about Varanasi – some find it too touristy and showy, others feel it encapsulates the very essence of what it is to be Indian with many other folk lying anywhere in between.  Others still encounter wild spiritual journeys that leave them there for dozens of years, hairier and somewhere closer to enlightenment.  Regardless of the motivations for being there, we would hazard a guess to say that everyone takes something away.  Its hard to convey the reality of Varanasi with words so we’ll do our best to give you a guided tour via (mostly) pictures.  The ghats are an amazing part of the fabric of Varanasi, so what better place to start?

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The word ghat refers to a series of steps leading down to a body of water, in most cases a holy river such as the Ganges, which courses through the city.  Varanasi has nearly 100 ghats and it is that daily life of the residents is showcased at it most intense, most visible and most accessible.   IMG_4644IMG_4737Of course, like most of the rest of the north of India, cows are everywhere.  ”Beef, beef everywhere and not a bite to eat.”
IMG_4750 They live, bathe and die alongside their human counterparts.IMG_4704 IMG_4688 IMG_4743IMG_4649 IMG_4686Boats are the other noticeable feature here, constantly shuttling devotees and tourists along the fairly calm river.

IMG_4019 IMG_4714IMG_4734IMG_4026IMG_4004IMG_4902With less distance between the sacred and profane than most of us are perhaps used to, extreme spirituality lies alongside laundry.

IMG_4890 IMG_4016 IMG_4913The Ganges is a sacred river to Hindus along every fragment of its length. All along its course, Hindus bathe in its waters, paying homage to their ancestors and to their gods by cupping the water in their hands, lifting it and letting it fall back into the river; they offer flowers and rose petals and float shallow clay dishes filled with oil and lit with wicks.  When someone dies, ashes of the deceased can be brought to the river, or the body itself can be burnt on one of the cremation ghats.  The river is considered the embodiment of all sacred waters in Hindu mythology making it a pretty special and highly regarded place, drawing lay people and holy people alike.IMG_4942IMG_4038IMG_4944IMG_4915Religion, chores, play, commerce, art…everything exists alongside the water.IMG_4894IMG_4899IMG_4893 IMG_4731 IMG_4719 Now, before you all start to think that India has got to our brains and we’ve gone all reflective and serious and stuff, we’ll insert a bit of light relief, in the form of Dan getting sucked into a traditional touristy trade on the shores of India – snake plying!IMG_4917IMG_4928 IMG_4930 For a fee, Dan could even play with little snakey.  IMG_4931 Seems he has overcome his fear of snakes!IMG_4937 As with all good blogs, this must come to an end, and what more auspicious place to leave it than at the final ending for devotees – the burning ghat.  Photography is not allowed of the burning area but en route we caught some cool views of the piles of wood (used to create the pyres) and the surrounding areas. IMG_4046 IMG_4946A pretty amazing place to end up, don’t you think?

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Inflatable Poo and a Pie or Two…

Perfect days occur most often in unexpected and unplanned ways.  Making the most of a day off work mid-week and the unusually sunny, clear day, we decided to hit Hong Kong’s Western Promenade area to check out an exhibition that has been the talk of the town.  So forgive us the short segue from our India travels – but it was the kind of random day that would be rude not to share.

As mentioned, the weather was utterly stunning; it was one of those rare days when the hot sun is shining, the clouds are puffy and white, the sky radiates a delicate but wonderful shade of eggshell blue and the pollution has cleared off allowing the buildings that line the ever impressive HK harbour to be seen in high definition.

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The International Commerce Centre (ICC) is a particularly impressive feature of the Kowloon side of the skyline.  Reaching 118 stories into the heavens, it houses, among other more boring and commerce-y stuff, the Ritz-Carlton, which lays claim to not being only the world’s highest hotel but also to having the world’s highest swimming pool and bar.

IMG_8140Until June a rather random blot on the ICC’s otherwise glamorous foreground can be seen, much to the amusement of, well, everybody with half a soul.

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If you’re looking at this and thinking “that looks like a giant pile of poo”, you’re right, that’s exactly what it is! Well, the inflatable kind anyway which is definitely a good thing in the 30 degree day.  IMG_8139

“Mobile M+: Inflation!” is one of a series of pre-opening “nomadic” exhibitions curated by M+, the new museum for visual culture currently under construction at the West Kowloon Cultural District.  The works, according to the M+ website, are meant to “explore the ever-changing notions of nature and artifice, intimacy and monumentality, permanence and temporariness, as well as beauty and the grotesque in the realm of constructed landscapes.”

Enough of a mission statement, let’s check out some poooooo!

IMG_8146 Just how big is this poo, exactly?!  In the interests of scale, H-J got up close and personal.IMG_8151 IMG_8152 Its not all just shits and giggles at the waterfront.  There’s also a gigantic piggy, complete with apple eyes and meaty insides.IMG_8158 IMG_8178 Upon venturing in through the porky ribcage, one can rest upon inflatable cushions complete with photographic overlays of bacon, mince and other porcine products. IMG_8162 Bugs and legs were up next.IMG_8168 A bowl of water is placed in front of these inflatables, allowing for some cool perspectives/illusions if you feel like crouching down.  Cause half a gigantic upside down body and a giant bug aren’t cool enough by themselves?! IMG_8170 A lotus flower was in the process of being re-inflated when we were there but H-J was far too impatient to await its reaching full glory as something else had caught her eye…IMG_8250 A life size Stonehenge BOUNCY CASTLE!!!IMG_8179 We’re sure you’ll all agree that one of the suckful things about being a ‘grown up’ is that you’re not allowed to do lots of stuff that looks really fun, like jumping on bouncy castles. That is, unless you’re slightly rich/bonkers and can afford/justify hiring your own.  The rest of us mere mortals watch children bounce with glee and harbour secret thoughts of screw driving away their fun.  Not today though – this bouncy delight was open to all (other than those wanting to engage in human sacrifice) and being the amazingly smart people we are visiting on a super hot weekday, we all but had the run of it to ourselves.IMG_8181 IMG_8224 IMG_8182 IMG_8226 IMG_8228 IMG_8187 IMG_8200 IMG_8207 IMG_8212 It was the most fun we’ve had in ages and certainly the most fun we’ve probably everhad jumping around like crazy folk while sober.  Awesome does not begin to describe it.  We’re convinced that if everyone was forced to engage in this kind of activity at least once the world would be a well more chilled out place.  Oh and we felt justified in skipping the gym today – its quite a workout bouncing around like an idiot for half an hour!

Appetites duly worked up and sweat glistening on our brows, our eyes were caught by the promise of Food and Drinks in a humble looking trailer just beyond the ‘Henge.
IMG_8231 What lay inside this discrete package was far, far greater than we ever would have guessed or dared to imagine on the waterfront of Hong Kong.IMG_8233 Pies.  Yes, PIES.  True blue meat pies.  In a queer twist of absolute serendipity the one that H-J randomly ordered even had a little pastry caribou adoring its golden top.  Actually, its probably a cow being a beef pie and all, but we’re going with the theme of perfection here.IMG_8237 Not just pies were to be had though.  Sausage rolls too!  This was a Kiwi expat’s dream.IMG_8240 Piles of poo, a bouncy castle for adults and meaty pastry delights.  Does life get any better than this?!  IMG_8252Thanks Hong Kong for a wildly unpredictable and incredibly incredible day.

And should you want to order your body weight in pies, or learn more about the exhibition (and not just look at pictures of poo), then do check out the following:

Tai Tai Pies 
http://www.taitaipiepies.com/home.htm

Mobile M+ 
http://www.mobile-mplus.hk/#_home
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Catch you all back in India soon to share our last few days in the north!